Tucked away in Østfold County, Sarpsborg is one of Norway’s oldest cities. Founded in 1016 by Viking king Olav Haraldsson, who was later canonised as St. Olav, its deep historical roots stretch across the North Sea. Tales of Olav’s daring conquest at London Bridge are said to have inspired the well-known nursery rhyme, “London Bridge is Falling Down.”
Every summer, Sarpsborg celebrates its heritage with Olavsdagene, a vibrant week-long Viking festival featuring music, theatre, crafts, and an expansive Viking market in Landeparken. Visitors can watch warriors duel, try axe throwing or archery, and sample delicious food inspired by Norse traditions. Historical reenactors fill the park, setting up rows of authentic tents and vividly bringing history to life.
This year’s festival unfolded under intense summer heat, with temperatures soaring above 30°C. Although the heat thinned the crowds somewhat, the return of the beloved Olav den Heldige play drew many families to the open-air stage, energising the atmosphere in the park. Our visit coincided with a sudden and dramatic thunderstorm that began just as the performance started. The storm became an unexpectedly perfect backdrop, with thunder booming and lightning illuminating the darkening sky as the Norse gods—particularly Thor—took the stage. But when lightning struck perilously close, the audience had to be swiftly evacuated. Despite the brief chaos, the experience felt strangely fitting, as if the gods themselves had chosen to participate.
Yet the most unforgettable part of our visit wasn’t at the festival itself—it began with a boat ride on Tunevannet.
We had signed up for Norrøn natt, a unique overnight Viking experience on the island of Storholmen. The adventure started aboard Visund, Sarpsborg’s cherished Viking ship. Built in 2000 by students at Fosen Folkehøyskole, Visund draws inspiration from the iconic Tune and Gokstad ships. It is lovingly maintained by local volunteers and has become an integral part of the festival.
A skald from the Viking camp joined our crossing, dressed authentically and captivating us with stories from Norse mythology. His voice carried gently over the water, creating a magical atmosphere. My son was utterly enchanted—this storytelling journey was undoubtedly the highlight of his visit.
Upon arriving at the island, we were warmly greeted by Jimmy, our host for the evening. He had thoughtfully arranged a charming campsite, with historical-style canvas tents circling a welcoming fire. We had expected a basic setup, packing sleeping bags and dry snacks, but the experience proved far more generous and inviting.
Dinner featured a hearty lapskaus (meat and vegetable stew), delicious onion soup, and freshly baked pinnebrød—dough wrapped around sticks and toasted over the flames. Later, we enjoyed Skyr (similar to Youghurt) topped with fresh berries, and in the morning we awoke to a wonderful breakfast of fresh bread, cheese, cured meats, and an omelet cooked over the fire. The plentiful, thoughtfully prepared meals made me regret eating before arriving; there was simply too much good food.
Due to a booking mix-up, our family ended up being the only guests that night, which gave the experience a peaceful, personal touch we genuinely appreciated. It truly felt as if we had stepped back in time, free from distractions and hurried schedules.
Still, I couldn’t help but think how enjoyable it would have been to share this magical space with other families. My son would have loved having playmates to explore the woods, build stick swords, and invent Viking adventures. The setting was absolutely perfect for such imaginative play.
We slept comfortably in our canvas tents, with the fire’s soft glow nearby. Throughout the night, the weather remained pleasantly warm, accompanied by a gentle breeze under clear skies. Early morning brought a slight chill, prompting us to reach for light jackets, but warmth returned swiftly with the rising sun. It was a simple yet extraordinary evening, one we’ll always cherish—a quiet moment where history felt genuinely alive and wonderfully close. We’re already looking forward to attending next year and hope to see more families join us.